For many travellers, Dong Hoi is just a name on a train ticket on the way to the famous caves of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park. But step off the train or plane and stay a little longer, and you’ll discover a sleepy seaside city of wide rivers, long beaches and quiet backstreets that feels a world away from Vietnam’s big tourist hotspots.

Located on the north-central coast, Dong Hoi is the capital of Quang Binh province and sits where the Nhật Lệ River meets the South China Sea. With its pastel sunsets, scattered war relics and relaxed café culture, the city is an ideal base if you want to combine beach time, history and cave adventures in one trip.

A City Rebuilt from the Ashes

At first glance, Dong Hoi feels calm and modern. It’s hard to imagine that during the Vietnam War, the city was heavily bombed and almost completely destroyed because of its strategic location on the supply route to the south.

Today, evidence of that past is subtle but powerful:

• Tam Toa Church – a shattered stone façade and lonely bell tower left standing as a memorial to the air raids that flattened the city.

• Dong Hoi Citadel – once a star-shaped fortress guarding the river, parts of its moat, ramparts and gates still remain, now surrounded by parks and local life.

Wandering between these sites, you get a sense of resilience: a city that has chosen to rebuild not as a mega-metropolis, but as a friendly regional town with space to breathe.

Riverfront Life on the Nhật Lệ

Dong Hoi’s heart beats along the Nhật Lệ River, a deep-blue ribbon curving around the city before emptying into the sea. Towards evening, locals come out to stroll, jog and drink sugarcane juice on the wide riverside promenade. From here you see fishing boats returning, their coloured hulls reflected in the water as the city lights flicker on.

Cross the bridge and the river widens into a sandy estuary where Nhat Le Beach begins:

• Long, pale-gold sand

• Calm, swimmable waters

• Simple seafood shacks serving grilled squid, clams and local specialities

On quiet weekdays, you might share the beach with just a handful of families and the odd kite-flying child. At sunset, the sky often turns soft pink and orange, mirrored in the shallow tidal pools.

For an even sleepier stretch of sand, head over the bridge to Bao Ninh Beach on the peninsula opposite the city. Resorts are starting to appear here, but much of the coast still feels pleasantly underdeveloped, with palm trees and fishing nets rather than beach clubs and loud bars.

Gateway to Phong Nha–Ke Bang’s Underground World

Most travellers know Dong Hoi as the gateway to Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site about 50 km inland.

From Dong Hoi, it’s an easy 45–60 minute drive to reach:

• Phong Nha Cave – accessed by boat along the Son River, with huge chambers and dripping stalactites.

• Paradise Cave – a spectacular dry cave with wooden walkways winding past cathedral-like rock formations.

• More remote adventures like jungle treks, underground rivers and multi-day expeditions to vast caverns such as Hang Én or Son Doong (for those with time, budget and fitness).

Many visitors rush through Dong Hoi, spending their nights only in Phong Nha village. Choosing to base yourself in Dong Hoi instead gives you the best of both worlds: laid-back seaside evenings after big cave days, plus easier access to the airport, train station and bus network.

What to See and Do in Dong Hoi

1. Explore the Dong Hoi Citadel

The Dong Hoi Citadel dates back to the early 19th century Nguyen Dynasty, built as a star-shaped fortress around the old town. Much of it was damaged by war and time, but sections of the walls, moats and the main gate have been reconstructed. Walk or cycle around the perimeter to see:

• Grassy ramparts overlooking canals

• Locals fishing or chatting under shady trees

• School kids cutting through the park after class

It’s a perfect place to glimpse everyday life woven into historic space.

2. Visit Tam Toa Church

Down by the river, Tam Toa Church stands roofless, its bullet-scarred façade preserved as a memorial rather than restored. Surrounded by a low fence and information boards, it’s a poignant stop that tells the story of Dong Hoi’s destruction in just one glance.

3. Walk the Nhật Lệ Promenade

In the cooler hours of early morning or late afternoon, join the locals on the Nhật Lệ riverside promenade. You can:

• Watch fishermen mend their nets on the quay

• Stop for iced coffee or fresh coconut at simple cafés

• Photograph the city skyline and bridges from different angles

At night, food carts appear selling grilled corn, skewers and sweet treats, turning the area into a relaxed open-air dining room.

4. Unwind at Nhat Le and Bao Ninh Beaches

Both Nhat Le Beach and Bao Ninh Beach deliver exactly what many travellers crave after long train rides:

• Soft sand and warm water

• Room to spread out

• A slower rhythm than Da Nang or Nha Trang

Rent a sunbed, order a plate of steamed clams with lemongrass, and watch local kids splash in the waves while fishing boats bob offshore.

5. Taste Local Flavours

Quang Binh province has its own culinary specialities that are easier to find in Dong Hoi than anywhere else:

• Bánh bột lọc – chewy tapioca dumplings filled with shrimp and pork, usually served with sweet fish sauce.

• Cháo hàu – creamy oyster porridge, rich and comforting.

• Fresh seafood – squid, prawns, clams and fish grilled or stir-fried with garlic and green onion.

Look for small, busy eateries near the market or along the riverside rather than big tourist restaurants; that’s where you’ll get the most authentic flavours.

A Day in Dong Hoi: Suggested Itinerary

Morning
Start with Vietnamese iced coffee at a café overlooking the river. Then head to the Dong Hoi Citadel and wander through the gates and parks, stopping at Tam Toa Church on your way back down to the waterfront.

Afternoon
Cross the bridge to Bao Ninh Beach. Spend the hottest hours swimming, dozing under an umbrella and sampling local seafood at one of the casual beach restaurants.

Sunset & Evening
Return to the Nhật Lệ promenade for golden hour views of the river and city lights. As night falls, join the locals for street food, or choose a riverside restaurant for grilled fish and a cold beer.

Practical Travel Information

Getting There

Dong Hoi is surprisingly easy to reach for such a relaxed city:

• By air: Dong Hoi Airport has domestic flights from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, with flight times around 1–1.5 hours.

• By train: The Reunification Express stops at Dong Hoi Station, roughly halfway between Hanoi and Hue – a scenic way to arrive.

• By bus: Long-distance buses connect Dong Hoi with major cities across Vietnam, as well as nearby destinations like Hue and Da Nang.

Getting Around

The city is compact and largely flat:

• Walk or cycle along the riverfront and between central sights

• Take taxis or ride-hailing services to reach the beaches and airport

• Join organised transfers or day tours for trips to Phong Nha–Ke Bang

When to Go

Quang Binh has a tropical monsoon climate, with distinct dry and wet seasons:

• Best time: generally March to August, when it’s hot, sunny and ideal for beaches and caves

• Rainy season: roughly September to November, when heavy showers and occasional storms can affect travel

• Cooler months: December to February, with milder temperatures but more cloud and some drizzle

If cave trekking and beach time are priorities, avoid the peak of the rainy season when some tours may be cancelled.

Where to Stay

Accommodation in Dong Hoi ranges from:

• Riverside mid-range hotels with views over the Nhật Lệ

• Beachfront resorts along Nhat Le and Bao Ninh for a full seaside stay

• Simple guesthouses in the centre for budget travellers

Staying in the city gives you easy access to transport and dining, while the beaches are just a short taxi ride away.

Why Dong Hoi Deserves a Place on Your Vietnam Itinerary

Dong Hoi isn’t a city of must-see bucket-list icons. Its charm lies in the combination of things:

• A relaxed seaside atmosphere

• Easy access to one of Asia’s most spectacular cave systems

• Quiet reminders of a turbulent past

• Friendly, unhurried local life

For travellers who like places that feel real, not over-curated, Dong Hoi is a rewarding stop between the big names of Hue, Hoi An and Phong Nha. Give it at least a full day – or better, two or three nights – and let the rhythm of the river, the wind off the sea and the simple routine of market, café and promenade sink in.